Sunday 8 September 2013

ARBUTUS

Jenny and I required feeding so we took a culinary visit to Soho, home of Arbutus. This place is a bit of a gem. Think relaxed atmosphere with michelin starred dining and a sleek band of staff who are as friendly as they are unobtrusive. I've been a number of times and find it a reliable and not overly expensive delight - particularly at lunch when they do a deal of £22.50 for three courses!

Happily, this visit was another success story. The place is amazingly untouched by the mayhem of Soho that lingers just down the road. Having said that, the chatter can get very noisy in the intimate space but this didn't bother us. If, however, you're after a mellow evening involving fewer decibels, this may not be the one for you.

We began with deliciously refreshing watermelon lemonade - who'd have thought? But watermelon and lemonade turned out to make a blissful union. Shortly after arrived an offering of bread from a rather deep box with hardly anything in it. Delving into this fathomless container it seemed rather a shame that there was so little bread to go round in such an affluent establishment but this was soon forgotten...




For our starters Jenny chose their famous squid and mackerel burger, she claimed it was a little too salty - but without trying it I can only disagree! Especially as my chosen lamb with kashk e bademjan was so under seasoned. By that I must explain: kashk e bademjan is a Persian dish (Anvari heritage) and one of my favourites. It seemed quite bizzare to find it on a French/English menu so I was intrigued enough to try it. I must say it looked more beautiful than it's ever been presented to me in any Iranian establishment, but it just didn't have the taste. Not enough salt and the onions hadn't been fried enough before adding the turmeric. (Quick aside on international onion frying - the French and the Iranians deal with theirs using two very separate techniques. The French most commonly soften the onions, sometimes sweating them for hours to gain a sweet melting taste and texture. The Iraninans like to fry them on a high heat quickly caramelising them and gaining an unmistakable onion wallop.) No wallops in sight. Having said that the lamb was delicious, beautifully cut and this middle eastern protrusion made sense against it's new backdrop.





Mains were masterpieces. My beef with dauphinoise (however rich) was a delicious feast involving caramelised onions and asparagus with a nutty jus - divine and plenty of it! Jenny's rabbit with it's perfectly sweet gravy and side of rabbit shepherds pie was jowl shakingly droolsome - not a morsel was left 'pon plate.





Following these huge portions of food Jenny declined a dessert but I, like the hero I know I am, insisted we share one and along came the "cold chocolate fondant with stout ice-cream". I must admit stout ice-cream did not have me overly excited but when it arrived, nothing could have kept me from it. I'm happy to say that although we shared, my expanding waistline was able to engulf the larger half.



The bill came to a little over £80 including a glass of wine and service but, as mentioned earlier, at lunch they do a 3 course menu for £22.50. Certainly a better deal but considering how sluggishly Jenny and I could move afterward - even on sight of our imminent bus (we missed it) - and considering the quality of food and service, I'm not sure where else one can find such good value in this neck of the woods. Try it!


Arbutus on Urbanspoon
Arbutus 
63 — 64 Frith Street
London
W1D 3JW
Tel: 020 7734 4545

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