local sauce

FISH GIVES YOU BRAINS


I ate this about a year ago at St John's Bread and Wine in Spitalfields, which I have to say is not as fancy as it's big sister in Clerkenwell, but the food, I'm convinced, is better. I first came here with my two cheffy friends Ben and Rupert just after we'd finished our training. It will always hold fond memories for me recalling the husband vs. wife style spat that arose after one of the boys booked a table there while the other desperately insisted that all he'd ever wanted was a greasy burger. Cries of "but I did this for us!" promptly ensued by the table-booker. None-the-less, upon arrival we were all very pleased with our food and this has been a firm favourite ever since.


I love everything about the simple but well considered combination of flavours in this recipe. Making pesto is one of my favourites. I have to admit I am not a fan of measuring - I haven't the patience, and making pesto is a personal affair - you can make it how you want. Some recipes leave out the garlic altogether some use Romano cheese instead of Parmesan or Pecorino, and the taste can completely change depending on exactly which oil or cheese, or how toasted your pine nuts are or indeed whether you even use pine nuts at all. However you like it you can make it just the way you want - just have a play. I always feel very satisfied and even a little smug when it's made.

Mackerel can be cooked lots of ways - BBQ, grill or roast - it generally enjoys a more abrasive approach than milder fish. It has a melting, tender texture as well as a bold taste and this power-off between pesto, fish and zesty tomatoes is a simple treat.

Simple and Effective Mackerel

Ingredients

Mackerel, gutted
Maldon Salt
Olive oil


Vine tomatoes
Crushed garlic
Lemon zest
Olive oil
Maldon salt




For the Pesto
2 handfuls of basil leaves
1 clove of garlic
A handful of lightly toasted pine nuts
Extra Virgin Olive oil
A handful of grated Parmesan cheese
A squeeze of lemon juice
A pinch of salt
Black pepper, to taste


Lemon slices to serve


Oven on

Turn the oven to 200 C

Make the Pesto

While the oven heats up make your pesto. You can make pesto with either a pestle and mortar (more time consuming, but gives a different flavour) or in a magimix, which I admit I'm lazy enough to prefer and it still tastes good. For either version, start with a pinch of salt and some garlic, crush/whizz them together. Crushing/whizzing as you go, add torn basil leaves, followed by pine nuts, and the Parmesan (you could use pecorino - creamier or Romano - saltier), and then add the olive oil - just enough to bring the sauce together and lemon juice, tasting throughout to see what you think it needs. Season with salt and pepper to taste


Prepare the Tomatoes
For the tomatoes you should keep them on the vine and add the crushed garlic, salt and lemon zest then pour on a little olive oil and gently rub the tomatoes, making sure they're all nicely covered.

Sort out the Fish

Now prepare the fish. Place the Mackerel on some foil and pour a good glug of olive oil and a large pinch of salt over it. Cook in the preheated oven for about 12 minutes, turning once.


Serve 
To serve simply pour your pesto over the cooked fish and plate up the tomatoes and lemon slices.